Every time we travel to Manson, in WA’s Lake Chelan AVA, we always visit Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards for excellent wines and notorious stories. It is a must-stop, because of the wines and because of the friendly and knowledgeable co-owners, Judy and Don Phelps, and Julian Shaver. During our trip last month, we were delighted that Judy joined us. And we toasted the winery’s 20th anniversary. She and our tasting room hostess Becca kindly poured us five impressive wines. Their website proclaims “Exceptional Wines and Notorious Stories from Lake Chelan.” That is exactly right. Read on for details.
Visit Hard Row to Hoe
As mentioned, a visit to the Lake Chelan AVA in north-central Washington isn’t complete without stopping at Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards. Our recent trip was no exception. We spent an hour with owner/founding winemaker Judy Phelps and tasted their current, standout releases.
If you look around the tasting room, and at the names of some of the wines, you’ll quickly notice that something naughty is in the air. For example, Hard Row calls a tasty white wine “Nauti Buoy” and a lineup of wines “Shameless Hussy.” And then there’s the wallpaper in the bathroom, along with scanty clothing scattered about.
But don’t let the racy, playful fun take away from the wines, which are serious, excellent-quality, and memorable. Likewise, the name of the winery itself has two meanings — one obviously related to vineyard management; the other is racy. Cue the notorious stories!
Hard Row to Hoe Story
The story starts almost one hundred years ago. Back in the late 1930s, construction was winding down at the Grand Coulee Dam, and the area’s “professional ladies” decided to travel to then-remote Lake Chelan, where a new mine had just opened near the town of Lucerne. The ladies moved into the Edgemont Lodge, located a few miles uplake from Lucerne at Point Lovely. Their goal: to take care of the miners. In other words, the lodge became a brothel.
As the story continues, a long-time resident, an entrepreneur some might think, ran a rowboat taxi service from Lucerne to Point Lovely to transport the miners to and from the brothel, in support of the soon-thriving enterprise at Edgemont Lodge. Eventually, the miners’ wives decided to retaliate by burning down the brothel.
Fast forward to present times, and the decor in Hard Row to Hoe’s tasting room reflects the story: an actual bed from the brothel, feather boas, negligees, pink panties, and intriguing wall paper. The names of wines also contribute: Burning Desire, Shameless Hussy, Seduction, Good in Bed, Nauti Buoy®, Soixante-neuf Rosé, and S&M (Syrah and Malbec), for example. Hard Row to Hoe wines depict the focus, dedication, talent, and skills of Judy, Don, and Julian. And, as you can tell by many wine names and descriptions, they’re a lot of fun too.
Hard Row to Hoe Wines
While we caught up with Judy during our recent visit, she poured us tastes of 2025 Shameless Hussy Rosé, 2025 Nauti Buoy®, 2023 SMS (Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle), 2022 Barbera, and 2022 Estate Pinot Noir. As we’ve come to expect from this amazing winery, all five are stellar. Of note, the family has a “land-first” philosophy, where farming organically and sustainably is at the core of their hearts. Consequently, one of their vineyards is Lake Chelan’s first to receive both the Sustainable and Salmon Safe certifications.
White Wines and Rosé
2025 Shameless Hussy Rosé ($29): We’ve always embraced Judy’s description: “Our Shameless Hussy wines don’t take themselves too seriously — so you don’t have to swirl and pontificate. Just chill, pour, and enjoy.” This vintage of Shameless Hussy Rosé is a refreshing Gamay Noir-based blend, with sassy, zippy flavors of grapefruit, strawberries, and cherries. Of course it’s one of their best-selling summer wines.
2025 Nauti Buoy® ($29): Nauti Buoy®, Hard Row’s best-selling and signature white wine, comprises 80% Riesling and 20% Muscat, crafted primarily from estate-grown, organically farmed grapes. We adore the citrus freshness and wet-stone minerality. This wine oozes personality, embodying the playful spirit of the winery. For instance, on the back label, you’ll find a Mae West quote: “When he was good, he was very, very good… but when he was bad, he was better.” Fitting that Judy suggests pairing this Nauti Buoy® with spicy hot wings or Thai curry.
2023 SMS ($34): The name stands for a delicious, easy-drinking blend of Sauvignon Blanc (55%), Sémillon (31%), and Muscadelle (14%). We thought the citrus flavors and round, creamy finish made this approachable white wine a standout. Serve it with grilled salmon or scallops, and your dinner will sizzle.
Red Wine
2022 Barbera ($39): Judy describes this as “a weeknight-friendly Barbera with weekend-level charm.” Made from organically certified grapes from the Wahluke Slope, this Barbera features a balance of juicy fruit, lively acidity, and a mineral edge. We brought it home and will likely pair it with Dave’s famous spaghetti or Margot’s beef stew. Or we might simply serve it with pizza. As Judy puts it, “It’s the kind of bottle that turns a Tuesday into a feast without any fuss.”
2022 Estate Pinot Noir ($44): We loved the previous vintage, and the 2022 continues that trend. This remains a powerful, sleek, and seductive wine, attributed to the glacial gravel soils and the distinct desert-like conditions of the region. What a perfect Thanksgiving wine, with its berry aromas and flavors, and its refined and earthy elegance. Yes, we brought home a bottle for the holidays.
Summary
In conclusion, we highly recommend you stop at Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards when you visit the Lake Chelan AVA. Many of our friends have done so, and came home with smiles and lots of wine. It’s that good.
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Cheers!
Margot and Dave