A visit to Lake Chelan AVA in north-central Washington isn’t complete without a stop at Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards. Our recent trip was no exception. We spent a couple of wonderful hours with owner/founding winemaker Judy Phelps and tasted their current, standout releases. This time, we didn’t see Judy’s husband, co-owner and vineyard manager, Don Phelps, or her managing partner/head winemaker son, Julian Shaver, who were both understandably immersed in Harvest. However, we met hard-working, genial assistant winemaker Clint Hepper, and friendly and knowledgeable hostess, Jasmine Shattuck.
Hard Row to Hoe Story
First, the name of the winery itself has two meanings — one obviously related to vineyard management; the other is racy. We’ve been fans of Hard Row to Hoe for years, and owner Judy Phelps told us their story more than a decade ago. We wrote about it in previous posts, but it is so entertaining that it warrants repeating. It starts almost one hundred years ago.
Back in the late 1930s, construction was winding down at the Grand Coulee Dam, and the area’s “professional ladies” decided to travel to then-remote Lake Chelan, where a new mine had just opened near the town of Lucerne. The ladies moved into the Edgemont Lodge, located a few miles uplake from Lucerne at Point Lovely. Their goal: to take care of the miners. Yes, the lodge became a brothel.
As the story continues, a long-time resident, an entrepreneur some might think, ran a rowboat taxi service from Lucerne to Point Lovely to transport the miners to and from the brothel, in support of the soon-thriving enterprise at Edgemont Lodge.
Eventually, the miners’ wives decided to retaliate by burning down the brothel.
Fast forward to present times, and the decor in Hard Row to Hoe’s tasting room reflects the story: an actual bed from the brothel, feather boas, pink panties, and intriguing wall paper. The names of wines also contribute: After Noon Delight, Burning Desire, Shameless Hussy, Seduction, Good in Bed, Nauti Buoy®, Soixante-neuf Rosé, and S&M (Syrah and Malbec), for example.
Hard Row to Hoe Wines
While we caught up with Judy during our recent visit, Jasmine poured us tastes of 2022 Shameless Hussy Chardonnay, 2022 Rumours Roussanne-Marsanne, 2023 Soixante-Neuf Gamay Noir-based Rosé, 2023 Gamay Noir, 2021 Pinot Noir, and 2020 Burning Desire Estate Cabernet Franc, which has been my favorite, year after year. We also learned that Julian and Clint are producing a new carbonic maceration Gamay Noir.
Meanwhile, Judy shared plans for their new Poverty Hill Vineyard, just a couple of miles up lake from Hard Row. When they bought the property In 2021, they planted an acre of Alicante Bouschet. Then came more Syrah, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sémillon.
However, Judy told us, a new grape called Caladoc is the star. It’s a cross between Grenache and Cot (Malbec), making its debut in Washington on Poverty Hill. Judy will be very involved in next year’s harvest and crafting this wine. We can’t wait to try it.
Of note, the family has a “land-first” philosophy, where farming organically and sustainably is at the core of their hearts. One of their vineyards is Lake Chelan’s first to receive both the Sustainable and Salmon Safe certifications.
Hard Row to Hoe wines depict the focus, dedication, talent and skills of Judy, Don, Julian and Clint. And, as you can tell by many wine names and descriptions, they’re a lot of fun too.
White Wines and Rosé
2022 Shameless Hussy Chardonnay ($29): “You’ll be thinking about her long after she’s gone.” This is a crisp Chardonnay with balanced acidity and a bracing minerality. As Judy said, “Our Shameless Hussy wines don’t take themselves too seriously, so you don’t have to swirl them around and pontificate over them – you can just drink them!”
2023 Soixante-Neuf Gamay Noir-based Rosé ($29): Just because summer is over, doesn’t mean you can’t drink rosé! And this one, with its ballerina pink hue, is a beauty. “Our cheekily named Soixante-neuf Rosé is a playful yet elegant wine … picked early (and named) to lend a certain raciness to this wine. Love at first swallow.”
2022 Rumours Roussanne-Marsanne ($34): This gorgeous blend represents the only planting of these two varieties in the Lake Chelan AVA. Think honey, citrus and graphite, with zest and velvety richness. We loved it so much, we brought some home. “Rumours is like the lake’s best-kept secret spilled over a glass of wine. Imagine the Point Lovely brothel’s spicy tales lost to the flames when the brothel was burned down, leaving us with nothing but the lingering whispers and the taste of mystery in every sip.”
Red Wine
2023 Gamay Noir ($39): This pretty light red wine comes from the only Gamay Noir planting in the Lake Chelan AVA. It’s all about the fruit, brimming with berries and grapefruit, along with pepper and cedar. Serve it slightly chilled. Delicious! Consequently, we’re also looking forward to the future carbonic Gamay Noir 2024.
2021 Pinot Noir ($44): Judy said 2021 was a “truly exceptional vintage” for Pinot Noir in the Lake Chelan AVA, resulting in a “spicy, sleek and provocative” wine. She also attributes the glacial gravel soils and the distinct desert-like conditions of the region. What a perfect Thanksgiving wine, with its berry aromas and flavors. (My notes say “Hello turkey!”)
2020 Burning Desire Estate Cabernet Franc ($49): This is one of our favorite Washington state Cab Francs, and the 2020 vintage is no exception. It showcases both the winery’s serious approach as “a testament to organic viticulture” and also its saucy side, named after the miners’ wives retaliation mentioned above. This 100% Cab Franc is rich, velvety-smooth, concentrated and elegant, with aromas and flavors of berries, cherries and plums, with hints of herbs and spices. Of course, this wine came home with us.
Summary
In conclusion, we highly recommend you stop at Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards when you visit the Lake Chelan AVA. Many of our friends have done so, and came home with smiles and lots of wine. It’s that good. Likewise, you can buy these impressive wines at their website.
Credit for the creative photos goes to our friend Chuck Kinzer, a professional photographer. He and his wife Rita added even more fun to this excellent road trip.
Meanwhile, find us on Instagram and Facebook, and here at Write for Wine – It’s Wine O’Clock Somewhere.
Cheers!
Margot and Dave