One of our favorite winemakers on the west side of Washington state is John Bigelow of JM Cellars, who is talented, amazing, and one of the nicest guys around. Earlier this month, we spent a couple of fun and educational hours with John, his son and assistant winemaker Tommy, and their hard-working, friendly “cellar rat” Amy Garofano. We tasted current releases in addition to 2024 fermenting juice. And then Tommy treated us to two releases from his new eponymous label, Bigelow. What a remarkable experience.

Bigelow Harvest 2024

John Bigelow is the epitome of a winemaker who is both an artist and a scientist. He’s also a class act. We’ve been drinking his impressive wines since we moved to Seattle in 1999, one year after JM Cellars opened its doors at the picturesque Bramble Bump hill in Woodinville. Subsequently, we’ve also enjoyed listening to John talk about his passion projects and tasting his magnificent new releases. This recent day at his facilities in The Vault in Maltby was no exception. John and Tommy took a break from harvest to show us their fermenting juice and their barrel room, complete with a concrete egg and amphora.

During the production tour, John also shared some juice from fermentation, as well as some current releases. First, we tasted refreshing Concrete Chardonnay 2023, followed by the  fermenting juice for its 2024 vintage. Next, we tasted delicious juice from Andrews Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc and Merlot, in addition to Shaw Ridge Grenache and Syrah. All these samples are already oozing with potential.

Current Releases

Concrete Chardonnay 2023 ($48)

This 100% Stillwater Creek Chardonnay stands out — a  smooth, mineral-driven Chard, as a result of fermenting and aging Clone 95 grapes (originating from Montrachet, France) in a 900L concrete egg. We really liked the zesty, juicy flavors of stone fruits, pears, and apples. This is the third vintage of JM Cellars’ popular Concrete Chardonnay. It is so substantial that you can drink it through 2032, with or without food.

Bramble Bump Red 2021 ($32)

Meanwhile, John also poured his 2021 Bramble Bump Red, featuring 33% Carménère from both Seven Hills Vineyard and his estate Margaret’s Vineyard, along with 26% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Syrah. Bramble Bump Red is one of the first wines we tasted at JM Cellars back in 1999, and it remains delicious. As the name suggests, the flavors are brambly, dark fruit, with some black pepper from the Carménère. John calls it an every-day wine, and yes, we’d be happy to drink this delightful red every day.

JM Cellars “Ancora Imparo” Grenache 2022 ($65)

A visit to JM Cellars isn’t complete without a taste of Ancora Imparo Grenache, which his wine club members call A.I. just for fun. Twenty percent of the wine was fermented and aged in a clay amphora and 80% in French oak. This 100% Grenache offers a pretty nose of raspberries and pepper, and deep, rich berry flavors on the palate. John told us that Grenache is his favorite grape. And he has been working with Grenache grown on Red Mountain for the last five years. It shows in this beautiful wine. Ancora Imparo is Italian for “Yet, I learn” – a perfect name to represent John’s winemaking ideology. He is always experimenting, and starting new projects.

Bigelow Wines by Tommy Bigelow

After our time with John, Tommy told us about his new eponymous label, Bigelow. Tommy says Bigelow Wines are made from vineyards and grapes that he has worked with in the past. “This connection from root to glass drives my passion.”  For example, he and Amy Garofano created Summer Friends — rosés and white wines crafted with the intention of giving back. “Through this label, we will be sponsoring wine workers from South Africa to come and work in Washington State.”

Tommy and Amy poured us Summer Friends 100% Sémillon ($32), a crisp, refreshing wine from Red Mountain grapes. We adored its citrus aromas and flavors, along with stone fruit and melons. While Summer Friends Sémillon is a wonderful way to spend a sunny afternoon, we’d also serve it with seafood dishes all year.

Tommy’s elegant The Key 2022 showcases his love of Merlot. The Key is beautiful, with aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries, spices and a hint of chocolate. The wine is named after a poem he wrote while working in this block of Merlot in Seven Hills Vineyard in Walla Walla. He says “The Key is about self-discovery, finding out who you truly are in this moment, regardless of external expectations and patterns.”

As an aside, we know JM Cellars’ well-known red blend, Tre Fanciulli  — an Italian expression meaning “three treasured boys” — honors Tommy and his brothers, Jack and Joe. What we didn’t realize is that each son represents a grape variety in the blend. And Tommy represents Merlot, which began his love for this grape.

Summary: Bigelow

In conclusion, we appreciated a special time with two talented winemakers at JM Cellars, John and Tommy Bigelow. Many thanks to both of you for taking time out of your busy day during harvest to spend with us, and pour some of your superb wines. Not surprisingly, we enjoyed them all.

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Cheers!
Margot and Dave